Step 1- Designing and Concept sketching to final design.	Step 2- Colouring in the values of the panel for a basic "look"
Step 3- Design is traced onto pattern stock paper.	Step 4- Pattern is numbered according to colour, and grain of the glass is marked. Any other notations on shading are also made.
Step 5- Glass is carefully selected for maximum brilliance, transmission of light, and markings (streaks and blends)	Step 6- Pattern is cut with special triple-bladed pattern shears to allow for the copper foil and solder between the glass pieces.
Step 6- Careful attention must be paid to *how* the pattern is cut out to preserve the design and natural flow of the lines.	Step 6- More pieces are cut. For this window, I'm using two sizes of shears, which will give thicker and thinner lines in the finished piece.
Step 7- Gluing of pattern pieces down on glass. I do this b/c I work on several windows at one time. They are usually colour coded, this window has no additional markings on pattern pieces.	Step 7- Pieces glued down on the clear, maximizing the use of the glass. Cutting this piece will not be for the faint of heart! LOL!
Step 7- These greens are on the day easel for "actual" light transmission. Note the varying shades to work with- careful placement of the pattern pieces is essential in this step for the most "realistic" effects possible.	Step 7- Here you can see the dark green layout, and how the lighter/ darker streaks play on each other for shading- all in "real colour" of actual sunlight.
Step 7- To further illustrate what I'm looking for, this yellow has a perfect "zig zag" effect for tulip petal veinings.	Step 7- Here I've placed the pattern piece on the glass, and used my grain markings as a guide for perfect placement! :)
Step 8- Scoring (cutting) the glass.	Step 8- Tapping the underside of the glass with the cutter to "run" the scoreline.
Step 8- Using running pliers to break the score.	Step 8- Piles of "blocked" glass.... now onto detail cutting!
Step 9- Initial Cutting, separating out individual pieces before cutting up to the pattern piece.	Step 9- Score lines are right up next to the pattern piece. There were 11 cuts just for this piece alone.
Step 10- Grozing (pliers upper right corner) is to basically "chew" the edges of the glass for an accurate fit. Ultra tiny detail pieces such as #79 here are mighty easy to snap in two if one isn't careful! (But I'm a daredevil!)	Step 11- Prep for grinding. There are 112 pieces in this window, so each of the previous "cutting" steps listed had to be repeated for each and every piece of glass.
Step 12- Grinding. Glass dust can be inhaled and stick to the lungs, so we fill the diamond bit grinder w/ water to minimize the dust.	Step 12- Grinding all 112 glass pieces up against the spinning diamond bit. This smoothes the rough edges to a uniform plane.
Step 12- This piece is what raw glass edges look like before grinding. Foil has trouble sticking to this, and that sharp jag on the right isn't safe.	Step 12- These pieces are all ground, you can see the more scraped look. (It's not exactly easy on the fingers, either! LOL :D )
Step 13- Washing off the pattern. Each piece is washed in warm water, paper removed, dried then placed on the Cartoon (layout pattern).	Step 13- All pattern pieces washed off, laid out on the Cartoon, and ready for foiling. Note the glass grain, swirls, and markings which lend to a nicer effect.
Step 14- Foiling the glass pieces. A copper foil tape is wrapped around each piece.	Step 14- Crimping the foil around the edges. No "zip lock" strokes, or nasty copper foil cuts can ensue! ;D
Step 14- Burnishing down the foil with a lathekin. (The lathekin is that funny red thing.) This makes the foil stick securely to the glass edges.	Step 14- Process is repeated for all the pieces until they are all foiled! :)
Step 15- Layout. Squaring strips are tacked down, and they must be accurate, or the window will not be square.	Step 15- Careful shifting of the pieces to create shading lines once it is soldered.
Step 15- More careful shifting for shading lines...	Step 16- After all the pieces are arranged for maximum effect, I'll stabilize them by tack soldering them in place. First brush on the flux...
Step 16- Tack Soldering in the joints will keep the pieces still.	Step 16- Fluxing a longer seam between the pieces....
Step 16- I use a 60/40 solid core solder. Using the iron on the side tip, carefully melt into the solder along the fluxed copper lines. :)	Step 16- Soldering in detail...
Step 16- Half soldered, half tacked	Step 16- Front side completely soldered.
Step 16- The panel is carefully turned over, here you can see the back seams- and the clear bleed through of the molten solder between the pieces.	Step 17- Cutting the zinc came framing on a came saw... I LOVE POWER TOOLS!! :D
Step 17- Cutting the came at 45 degree angles for proper mitering.	Step 17- Testing the mitered cuts for accurate fit.
Step 17- Measuring for the next mitered cut using another short piece of zinc stock as a guide. Corners are soldered together once all frame pieces are cut, then the back side of the window is soldered.	Step 18- Soldered front and back. Last inspection to see for any bubbles in the solder, or drips of solder to pop off the glass.
Step 18- Scrubbing with Dawn dish soap to remove all flux residue, loosen solder drips, and any coatings on the glass. Then the panel is towel tried.	Step 18- Glass inspection to ensure that the pieces looked the way I thought they would, but also checking for any cracks which could have happened during soldering or scrubbing. I'm happy to report this panel is perfectly intact.
Step 19- Applying the polishing wax to protect the glass, polish the seams, and clean any remaining residue.	Step 20- After it's polished front and back, the window is signed and dated with a diamond tipped pen.
Step 21- Photograph the window for the archives. This is without light behind it.	Step 21- Photograph of the window in the bright natural light. This panel is finished!

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